I worked as a server for years. Working in the service industry will make
even the happiest and well-adjusted person bitter. I’ve dealt with way too many
high-maintenance people with unrealistic expectations of the dining
experience. And on the busy nights,
there’s nothing that sucks more than special orders. I don’t mind it in the case of food allergies,
and certainly things like peanuts and shellfish usually were in the kitchens I
worked in. I never wanted a guest of
mine to get sick. But then along came
gluten.
The gluten allergy.
It seemed like just another diet trend.
I’d watched the guests on Atkins come and go. Now, it seemed that all the (I’m going to generalize/stereotype)
soccer moms and skinny mean girls were jumping aboard the no gluten train. After dealing with this “trend” for months, I
coined the word “glutard.” This was for
the women who would come into my farm-to-table organic restaurant, as me if
there was gluten in the salad dressing, gluten in the chicken marinade, and ask
the croutons to be left off of their salad.
Then, they’d order a side of organic mac and cheese. I’d slowly look up from my server pad, (pen
and eyebrow raised) and say, “you know that has gluten.” To
which they’d giggle and say, “Oh, I only want a bite.” Thus, the birth of the glutard- a person who
was slow on the uptake when it came to gluten.
I know. Not a nice
name. But these ladies represented all
that I hated. Gluten wasn’t an actual
allergy- these ladies were using it as a diet tool. Then I met Sarah.
Sarah is a gorgeous human who I had the pleasure of doing a
production with in Chicago in 2008.
She’s a coloratura soprano, she’s a great actress, and she has a
wickedly dry sense of humor. We bonded,
as actors do, during the rehearsal process.
And one day she started telling me about her disability- celiac
disease. Again, as a server, my eyebrow
raised as she told me about her issues with gluten. And I remember thinking, “is this allergy
really a disability?” And, I realized,
hell yeah, it is. And I felt like a
jerk. Because celiac is not just an
allergy- it’s an auto-immune disorder. When exposed to gluten, an abnormal
immune response may lead to the production of several different autoantibodies
that can affect various organs. In the
small bowel, this causes an inflammatory reaction and may produce shortening of
the lining in the small intestine which affects the absorption of nutrients,
frequently leading to anemia. If untreated, it may result in cancers such as
intestinal lymphoma and an increased risk of early death. Yikes.
Sarah was ill for years before she was diagnosed. She had chronic diarrhea, and a distended tummy. She lost weight due to her body’s inability
to absorb nutrients. Often, she didn’t
want to eat at all, because she always felt ill afterward. She did office work and after licking stamps
would be ill for days- who knew there was gluten in stamp glue? Once she was diagnosed, it required a big
lifestyle change. She had to have
separate pans for cooking and baking from her boyfriend, because traces of
gluten left behind on cooking wares could make her sick. And the one that broke my heart- she couldn’t
kiss her boyfriend if he’d been out drinking beer, as the traces of gluten in
his mouth could make her ill. It was
wild- and I had no idea.
People who think that celiac (or any other medical condition
that requires a restricted diet) isn’t a disability are nuts. The ADA defines “and individual with a
disability” as a person who has a physical or mental impairment that
substantially limits one or more major life activity, has a record of such impairment,
or is regarded as having such an impairment.
Major life activities like, I don’t know- EATING like everybody else! Sarah can’t grab a latte at Starbucks or grab
a burger at McDonald’s like most people I know can. Because celiac, like a peanut or shellfish
allergy for example, severely impairs people’s ability to eat “normally” or
what is considered in Sarah’s words, “a normal cultural manner.” She likened it to people who can’t walk in
“culturally recognized manner” or something similar- basically, like everyone
else.
Celiac became recognized by the ADA as a disability in
2013. This is super important for many
reasons- but two stuck out to me as Sarah and I continued to have conversations
about this. First, it ensures coverage of people with “invisible disabilities”,
such as epilepsy, diabetes, heart failure, schizophrenia, depression, and
cancer. I investigated further some of
these “invisible disabilities.” As we chatted about briefly in class, people
who climb out of their cars from the handicap spot and do not get directly into
a wheelchair are often given the side eye.
But some people get the handicapped spots because of risk of over-exertion. For example, at the grocery store, pushing a
shopping carts increases their risk of seizure, which in turn could leave them
seizing in a parking lot where they could be run over. Often people in wheelchairs get a ride
instead of using their designated space as they fear that navigating large
parking lots in a low wheelchair might get you hit by a car. Again,
yikes- these are things I didn’t necessarily think about. Second, while awareness has been raised in
the past five years about celiac/gluten-free diets, the ADA DO can play a role
in one’s professional life. For example,
Sarah’s day job is in fundraising. A big
part of fundraising/development is going out and schmoozing, having meals with
donors, etc. Her job, therefore, is
required to ensure that she gets a gluten free meal at required work
events. And they are not allowed to fire
her because her chicken and vegetables cost $2-5 more than their standard
catering plate. Without the ADA they
would be able to fire/fine Sarah for the additional cost. And prior to the ADA recognizing Sarah’s disability,
she did have issues with employers fining/firing/or in general giving Sarah a
hard time about her disability, which she had no control over. She told me about bosses she had that were
“playfully nasty” or passive aggressive, and would tease her about “minding her
gluten in front of other people (often donors) when then impacts her ability to
do her job. She said, “think for a
second, Drea, if someone went like, ‘Watch that cancer!’ or ‘mind your
can-legs’ to someone with a physical disability or a disease. Now ay would that be accepted. But because my medical diet is also a middle-class
white girl trend, people think it’s funny to joke about it.” (See Jimmy Fallon below)
“Well, guess what,” she continues, “that’s really a lawsuit waiting
to happen. So, ADA has some serious
power to protect people like me, and I am so grateful for it!” It was at this point I shamefully told her
about the “glutards” I had waited on at my restaurant. To my sincere relief, she giggled. “Yup,” she agreed. “As I said, those stupid bitches who use the
gluten thing as a diet plan make it really hard on people like me. I think
‘glutard is a great name for them.
As far as those ladies who come into my restaurant, Sarah
isn’t one of them. She doesn’t want to
be annoying or tasked with “performing’ her disability. She is supremely resourceful, and before
dining out, already has scoped the menu of the place and decided what she can
eat. She also usually calls ahead to
verify if there are things she can safely consume. She hates “making a big deal out of it” to
the server who often is misinformed by their chef/managers about the menu. She simply informs the staff that she has
celiac. And she doesn’t go to
restaurants where they can’t accommodate her, because she doesn’t want to get
sick. This made me feel bad, as I
worried that that left her out of socializing with people. But she said she’d rather just not run the
risk of having an unaccommodating chef, an uninformed server, or a kitchen with
cross-contamination (or a combo of the three.)
She also said that while it’s difficult in Chicago (a city where most
fraternizing revolves around food) that she’s found other great ways to connect
with people socially- be it theatre, art classes, a jog/walk in the park, book
clubs, etc. She is also pleased as punch
to talk about her disability with anyone who has question- as evidenced in my
blog.
Thinking about celiac and other food allegories led me to
think about what food might be like in a “vision of the future.” I think in the next 50-100 years, our food
norms are going to shift. They already have significantly in the past hundred
years. We’ve witnessed the desire for fatter
cows, bug-free fruit, and sugar alternatives.
As a result, we now have hormones and pesticides in our food, or we must
pay more expensive prices for organic, hormone, free-range food. We’ve seen margarine (more plastic than food)
and high fructose corn syrup in everything (even baby-formula). We’ve seen obesity become rampant in our
children and poor- mainly because, again, healthy foods tend to be costlier. What if, in the future, animals die out and
everyone must become vegetarian or vegan?
What if we’re able to conquer all the food allergies, such as soy,
dairy, wheat, nightshade? Perhaps advances will be made, but if not, the future
may give us our daily sustenance in the form of pellets or pills. In my mind, I see myself on a conveyor belt
(a la the Jetsons) where I will be showered and clothed, and then a pill or
pellet will drop out of a chute like I’m a hamster. Maybe I’ll get three pills a day instead of
meals, or maybe there are pill combinations taken throughout the day. By then, will the pills have become allergen
free for everyone? No meat, shellfish,
peanut, etc.? I’d hate to think that I’d
no longer get to sit and eat a tasty hot meal, but maybe in the future, when we’re
all part cyborg, eating won’t be as important any longer. Our “fuel” may come in part from alternative
sources.
But, until the pellet food future is upon us, I ask
everyone, particularly those who work in food service, to have the patience
that I myself didn’t always have when dealing with a gluten allergy. While there may be the “glutards” of the
world who are a bit slow in their dieting trend, a gluten intolerance/celiac
person doesn’t have the “grab-and-go” ability with food that most of us are so accustomed
to. To conclude, my mom was diagnosed
with a gluten intolerance several years ago.
While initially sad that I could no longer make her a cake for her
birthday, it’s become a fun and inspiring challenge to learn even more about
where gluten is snuck into food. And I
happily check the menus at restaurants ahead of time so I can take her out for
a nice meal without feeling like I’m pressuring a server. But again, even if I must ask the server
questions, it’s for the greater good, and I hope for empathy. Because everyone
deserves the right to eat.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsjgGOPanGI
http://deliciousliving.com/gluten-free/celiac-and-gluten-intolerance-now-classified-disability
https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2018/02/12/what-will-food-be-like-in-the-future




As we’ve discussed with regards to many other topics, the definition of an identifiable quality depends on its deferential relationship to other entities. Gender identity, power, even disability.
ReplyDeleteFor example, a gluten intolerance could be a serious obstacle in a location where wheat is ubiquitous. Find a place where the people make pastries from cassava instead of flour and don’t cultivate wheat and - poof - the disability is gone. I have grown weary of hearing people tout the marvels gluten free everything, and I myself don’t eat wheat. I never had any test to see if there was a bona fide gluten intolerance, but rather I’ve discovered that numerous measurable health markers have improved sustainably in the absence of wheat. I keep to myself about it, source food I can eat, and get on with it. My issue with the “gluten free solution” has been the proliferation of what can accurately be called “gluten free junk food”: Soybean oil, sugar, and some highly refined starch...but no gluten: Dude, it’s HEALTHY! That’s where it becomes just another mercenary fad luring people down yet another detour away from sustainable health.
Wheat and many other foodstuffs are a part of a culture, part of our family memories, part of our lives, and it’s hard to consider them objectively. That traditional dish that my mother made for me and conjures up the sensation of home, safe haven, and those most dear...is damaging my gut lining? It’s not easy to swallow, and there’s often a bit of pushback, so, like I said, I keep it to myself. Except for now of course. And just for the record, one of the highest pleasures on earth for me was sitting in Danielos Italian Restaurant and dipping the most ethereal bread loaves, straight from the oven, into pools of olive oil...so I may not eat it anymore, but I’m glad it’s out there to be enjoyed.
I love that this post talks about the importance of recognizing a disability for being a disability. It's an interesting juxtaposition of when we are talking about not necessarily ignoring disability but rather recognizing our rush to qualify disabled people as "needy" or "helpless." This post has flipped that on it's head. Sarah gained power when her disability was recognized by the Department of Health. And that power actually enabled her to perform in a more "able" way!
ReplyDeleteIt's an interesting experiment then to imagine a society where another disability isn't viewed that way. Take epilepsy. Imagine rolling your eyes as someone drops to the floor in front of you, seizing. "What an attention grab" you might mutter to your friend. "So disruptive." As Andrea points out, it's an ABSURD comparison. And then on the the other end of the spectrum I wonder how far we take this idea of disability. We all have obstacles in our lives that make it more challenging for us to get through the world. What counts as a disability and what is just a challenge? Would it be too hippy-dippy or naive or even belittling of true disability to suggest that we all have aspects of our life in which we are just a little bit disabled?